PARIS is like a whore.  From a distance she seems ravishing, you can't wait until you have her in your arms.  And five minutes later you feel empty, disgusted with yourself.  You feel tricked.

      I returned to Paris with money in my pocket - a few hundred francs, which Collins had shoved in my pocket just as I was boarding the train.  It was enough to pay for a room and at least a week's good rations.  It was more than I had had in my hands at one time for several years.  I felt elated, as though perhaps a new life was opening up before me.  I wanted to conserve it too, so I looked up a cheap hotel over a bakery on the Rue du Chateau, just off the Rue de Vanves, a place that Eugene had pointed out to me once.  A few yards away was the bridge that spans the Montparnasse tracks.  A familiar quarter.

      I could have had a room for a hundred francs a month, a room without any conveniences to be sure - without even a window - and perhaps I would have taken it, just to be sure of a place to flop for a while, had it not been for the fact that in order to reach this room I would have been obliged to first pass through the room of a blind man.  The thought of passing his bed every night had a most depressing effect on me.  I decided to look elsewhere.  I went over to the Rue Cels, just behind the cemetery, and I looked at a sort of rat trap there with balconies running around the courtyard.  There were birdcages suspended from the balcony too, all along the lower tier.  A cheerful sight perhaps, but to me it seemed like the public ward in a hospital.  The proprietor didn't seem to have all his wits either.  I decided to wait for the night, to have a good look around, and then choose some attractive little joints in a quiet side street.

      At dinnertime I spent fifteen francs for a meal, just about twice the amount I had planned to allot myself.  That made me so wretched that I wouldn't allow myself to sit down for a coffee, even despite the fact that it had begun to drizzle.  No, I would walk about a bit and then go quietly to bed, at a reasonable hour.  I was already miserable, trying to husband my resources this way.  I had never in my life done it; it wasn't in my nature.

      Finally it began to come down in bucketfuls.  I was glad.  That would give me the excuse I needed to duck [in] somewhere and stretch my legs out.  It was still too early to go to bed.  I began to quicken my pace, heading back toward the Boulevard Raspail.  Suddenly a woman comes up to me and stops me, right in the pouring rain.  She wants to know what time it is.  I told her I didn't have a watch.  And then she bursts out, just like this: "Oh, my good sir, do you speak English by chance?"  I nod my head.  It's coming down in torrents now.  "Perhaps, my dear good man, you would be so kind as to take me to a café.  It is raining so and I haven't the money to sit down anywhere.  You will excuse me, my dear sir, but you have such a kind face ... I knew you were English right away."  And with this she smiles at me, a strange, half-demented smile.  "Perhaps you could give me a little advice, dear sir.  I am all alone in the world ... my God, it is terrible to have no money...."

      This "dear sir" and "kind sir" and "my good man", etc., had me on the verge of hysteria.  I felt sorry for her and yet I had to laugh.  I did laugh.  I laughed right in her face.  And then she laughed too, a weird, high-pitched laugh, off key, an altogether unexpected piece of cachinnation.  I caught her by the arm and we made a bolt for it to the nearest café.  She was still giggling when we entered the bistro.  "My dear good sir," she began again, "perhaps you think I am not telling you the truth.  I am a good girl ... I come of a good family.  Only" - and here she gave me that wan, broken smile again - "only I am so misfortunate as not to have a place to sit down."  At this I began to laugh again.  I couldn't help it - the phrases she used, the strange accent, the crazy hat she had on, that demented smile....

      "Listen," I interrupted, "what nationality are you?"

      "I'm English," she replied.  "That is, I was born in Poland, but my father is Irish."

      "So that makes you English?"

      "Yes," she said, and she began to giggle again, sheepishly, and with a pretence of being coy.

      "I suppose you know a nice little hotel where you could take me?"  I said this, not because I had any intention of going with her, but just to spare her the usual preliminaries.

      "Oh, my dear sir," she said, as though I had made the most grievous error, "I'm sure you don't mean that!  I'm not that kind of girl.  You were joking with me, I can see that.  You're so good ... you have such a kind face.  I would not dare to speak to a Frenchman as I did to you.  They insult you right away...."

      She went on in this vein for some time.  I wanted to break away from her.  But she didn't want to be left alone.  She was afraid - her papers were not in order.  Wouldn't I be good enough to walk her to her hotel?  Perhaps I could "lend" her fifteen or twenty francs, to quiet the patron?  I walked her to the hotel where she said she was stopping and I put a fifty franc bill in her hand.  Either she was very clever, or very innocent - it's hard to tell sometimes - but, at any rate, she wanted me to wait until she ran to the bistro for change.  I told her not to bother.  And with that she seized my hand impulsively and raised it to her lips.  I was flabbergasted.  I felt like giving her every damned thing I had.  That touched me, that crazy little gesture.  I thought to myself, it's good to be rich once in a while, just to get a new thrill like that.  Just the same, I didn't lose my head.  Fifty francs!  That was quite enough to squander on a rainy night.  As I walked off she waved to me with that crazy little bonnet which she didn't know how to wear.  It was as though we were old playmates.  I felt foolish and giddy.  "My dear kind sir ... you have such a gentle face ... you are so good, etc."  I felt like a saint.

      When you feel all puffed up inside it isn't so easy to go to bed right away.  You feel as though you ought to atone for such unexpected bursts of goodness.  Passing the "Jungle" I caught a glimpse of the dance floor; women with bare backs and ropes of pearls choking them - or so it looked - were wriggling their beautiful bottoms at me.  Walked right up to the bar and ordered a coupe of champagne.  When the music stopped, a beautiful blonde - she looked like a Norwegian - took a seat right beside me.  The place wasn't as crowded or as gay as it appeared from outside.  There were only a half dozen couples in the place - they must have all been dancing at once.  I ordered another coupe of champagne in order not to let my courage dribble away.

      When I got up to dance with the blonde there was no one on the floor but us.  Any other time I would have been self- conscious, but the champagne and the way she clung to me, the dimmed lights and the solid feeling of security which the few hundred francs gave me, well.... We had another dance together, a sort of private exhibition, and then we fell into conversation.  She had begun to weep - that was how it started.  I thought possibly she had had too much to drink, so I pretended not to be concerned.  And meanwhile I was looking around to see if there was any other timber available.  But the place was thoroughly deserted.

      The thing to do when you're trapped is to breeze - at once.  If you don't, you're lost.  What retained me, oddly enough, was the thought of paying for a hat check a second time.  One always lets himself in for it because of a trifle.

      The reason she was weeping, I discovered soon enough, was because she had just buried her child.  She wasn't Norwegian either, but French, and a midwife to boot.  A chic midwife, I must say, even with the tears running down her face.  I asked her if a little drink would help to console her, whereupon she very promptly ordered a whisky and tossed it off in the wink of an eye.  "Would you like another?" I suggested gently.  She thought she would, she felt so rotten, so terribly dejected.  She thought she would like a package of Camels too.  "No, wait a minute," she said.  "I think I'd rather have les Pall Mall."  Have what you like, I thought, but stop weeping, for Christ's sake, it gives me the willies.  I jerked her to her feet for another dance.  On her feet she seemed to be another person.  Maybe grief makes one more lecherous, I don't know.  I murmured something about breaking away.  "Where to?" she said eagerly.  "Oh, anywhere.  Some quiet place where we can talk."

      I went to the toilet and counted the money over again.  I hid the hundred franc notes in my fob pocket and kept a fifty franc note and the loose change in my trousers pocket.  I went back to the bar determined to talk turkey.

      She made it easier for me because she herself introduced the subject.  She was in difficulties.  It was not only that she had just lost her child, but her mother was home, ill, very ill, and there was the doctor to pay and medicine to be bought, and so on and so forth.  I didn't believe a word of it, of course.  A since I had to find a hotel for myself, I suggested that she come along with me and stay the night.  A little economy there, I thought to myself.  But she wouldn't do that.  She insisted on going home, said she had an apartment to herself - and besides she had to look after her mother.  On reflection I decided that it would be still cheaper sleeping at her place, so I said yes and let's go immediately.  Before going, however, I decided it was best to let her know just how I stood, so that there wouldn't be any squawking at the last minute.  I thought she was going to faint when I told her how much I had in my pocket.  "The likes of it!" she said.  Highly insulted she was.  I thought there would be a scene.... Undaunted, however, I stood my ground.  "Very well, then, I'll leave you," I said quietly.  "Perhaps I've made a mistake."

      "I should say you have!" she exclaimed, but clutching me by the sleeve at the same time. "Écoute, cheri ... sois raisnonable!"  When I heard that all my confidence was restored.  I knew that it would be merely a question of promising her a little extra and everything would be O.K.  "All right," I said wearily, "I'll be nice to you, you'll see."

      "You were lying to me, then?" she said.

      "Yes," I smiled, "I was just lying...."

      Before I had even put my hat on she had hailed a cab.  I heard her give the Boulevard de Clichy for an address.  That was more than the price of a room, I thought to myself.  Oh well, there was time yet ... we'd see.  I don't know how it started anymore but soon she was raving to me about Henry Bordeaux.  I have yet to meet a whore who doesn't know of Henry Bordeaux!  But this one was genuinely inspired; her language was beautiful now, so tender, so discerning, that I was debating how much to give her.  It seemed to me that I had heard her say - "quand il n'y aura plus de temps."  It sounded like that, anyway.  In the state I was in, a phrase like that was worth a hundred francs.  I wondered if it was her own or if she had pulled it from Henry Bordeaux.  Little matter.  It was just the right phrase with which to roll up to the foot of Montmartre.  "Good evening, mother," I was saying to myself, "daughter and I will look after you - quand il n'y aura plus de temps!"  She was going to show me her diploma, too, I remembered that.

      She was all aflutter, once the door had closed behind us.  Distracted.  Wringing her hands and striking Sarah Bernhardt poses, half undressed too, and pausing between times to urge me to hurry, to get undressed, to do this and do that.  Finally, when she had stripped down and was poking about with a chemise in her hand, searching for her kimono, I caught hold of her and gave her a good squeeze.  "She had a look of anguish on her face when I released her.  "My God!  My God!  I must go downstairs and have a look at mother!" she exclaimed.  "You can take a bath if you like, cheri.  There!  I'll be back in a few minutes."  At the door I embraced her again.  I was in my underclothes and I had a tremendous erection.  Somehow all this anguish and excitement, all the grief and histrionics, only whetted my appetite.  Perhaps she was just going downstairs to quiet her marquereau.  I had a feeling that something unusual was happening, some sort of drama which I would read about in the morning paper.  I gave the place a quick inspection.  There were two rooms and a bath, not badly furnished.  Rather coquettish.  There was her diploma on the wall - "first class," as they all read.  And there was the photograph of a child, a little girl with beautiful locks, on the dresser.  I put the water on for a bath, and then I changed my mind.  If something were to happen and I were found in the tub ... I didn't like the idea.  I paced back and forth, getting more and more uneasy as the minutes rolled by.

      When she returned she was even more upset than before.  "She's going to die ... she's going to die!" she kept wailing.  For a moment I was almost on the point of leaving.  How the hell can you climb over a woman when her mother's dying downstairs, perhaps right beneath you?  I put my arms around her, half in sympathy and half determined to get what I had come for.  As we stood thus she murmured, as if in real distress, her need for the money I had promised her.  It was for "maman".  Shit, I didn't have the heart to haggle about a few francs at the moment.  I walked over to the chair where my clothes were lying and I wriggled a hundred franc note out of my fob pocket, carefully keeping my back turned to her just the same.  And, as a further precaution, I placed my pants on the side of the bed where I knew I was going to flop.  The hundred francs wasn't altogether satisfactory to her, but I could see from the feeble way that she protested that it was quite enough.  Then, with an energy that astonished me, she flung off her kimono and jumped into bed.  As soon as I had put my arms around her and pulled her to me she reached for the switch and out went the lights.  She embraced me passionately, and she groaned as all French cunts do when they get you in bed.  She was getting me frightfully roused with her carrying on; that business of turning out the lights was a new one to me ... it seemed like the real thing.  But I was suspicious too, and as soon as I could manage conveniently I put my hands out to feel if my trousers were still there on the chair.

      I thought we were settled for the night.  The bed felt very comfortable, softer than the average hotel bed - and the sheets were clean, I had noticed that.  If only she wouldn't squirm so!  You would think she hadn't slept with a man for a month.  I wanted to stretch it out.  I wanted full value for my hundred francs.  But she was mumbling all sorts of things in that crazy bed language which goes to your blood even more rapidly when it's in the dark.  I was putting up a stiff fight, but it was impossible with her groaning and gasping going on, and her muttering: "Vite cheri!  Vite cheri!  Oh, c'est bon!  Oh, oh!  Vite, vite, cheri!"  I tried to count but it was like a fire alarm going off.  "Vite, cheri!" and this time she gave such a gasping shudder that bango! I heard the stars chiming and there was my hundred francs gone and the fifty that I had forgotten all about and the lights were on again and with the same alacrity that she had bounced into bed she was bouncing out again and grunting and squealing like an old sow.  I lay back and puffed a cigarette, gazing ruefully at my pants the while; they were terribly wrinkled.  In a moment she was back again, wrapping the kimono around her, and telling me in that agitated way which was getting on my nerves that I should make myself at home.  "I'm going downstairs to see mother," she said.  "Mais faites comme chez vous, cheri.  Je reviens tout de suite."

      After a quarter of an hour had passed I began to feel thoroughly restless.  I went inside and I read through a letter that was lying on the table.  It was nothing of any account - a love letter.  In the bathroom I examined all the bottles on the shelf; she had everything a woman requires to make herself smell beautiful.  I was still hoping that she would come back and give me another fifty francs' worth.  But time dragged on and there was no sign of her.  I began to grow alarmed.  Perhaps there was someone dying downstairs.  Absentmindedly, out of a sense of self-preservation, I suppose, I began to put my things on.  As I was buckling my belt it came to me like a flash how she had stuffed the hundred franc note into her purse.  In the excitement of the moment she had thrust the purse in the wardrobe, on the upper shelf.  I remembered the gesture she made - standing on her tiptoes and reaching for the shelf.  It didn't take me a minute to open the wardrobe and feel around for the purse.  It was still there.  I opened it hurriedly and saw my hundred franc note lying snugly between the silk coverlets.  I put the purse back just as it was, slipped into my coat and shoes, and then I went to the landing and listened intently.  I couldn't hear a sound.  Where she had gone to, Christ only knows.  In a jiffy I was back at the wardrobe and fumbling with her purse.  I pocketed the hundred francs and all the loose change besides.  Then, closing the door silently, I tiptoed down the stairs and when once I had hit the street I walked just as far as my legs would carry me.  At the Café Bourdon I stopped for a bite.  The whores there having a gay time pelting a fat man who had fallen asleep over his meal.  He was sound asleep; snoring, in fact, and yet his jaws were working away mechanically.  The place was in an uproar.  There were shouts of "All aboard!" and then a concerted banging of knives and forks.  He opened his eyes for a moment, blinked stupidly, and then his head rolled forward again on his chest.  I put the hundred franc bill carefully away in my fob pocket and counted the change.  The din around me was increasing and I had difficulty to recall exactly whether I had seen "first-class" on her diploma or not.  It bothered me.  About her mother I didn't give a damn.  I hoped she had croaked by now.  It would be strange if what she had said were true.  Too good to believe.  Vite cheri ... vite, vite!  And the other half-wit with her "my good sir" and "you have such a kind face"!  I wondered if she had really taken a room in that hotel we stopped by.